Lasting of shoes



'Oct. 15, 1929, ca. GODDU LASTING' OF SHOES Original Filed July 25, 1923 5 Sheets-Sheet l Oct. 15, 1929. G. GODDU 1,731,853

LASTING OF SHOES Original Filed July 25, 1923 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Oct. 15, 1929. G. GODDU LASTING OF SHOES Original Filed July 25, 1923 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Oct. '15, 1929. G. GODDU 1,731,853

LASTING OF SHOES Original Filed July 25, 1923 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented @et. 15, 1929 @l-EURG'E GOIIDJD'U', OI! WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOE TU UNITED SHOE MA- XEHINERY GOEPORATION, F PATEItSDN, NEW JERSEY, A CORIE'OBA'JKION 03E NEW JERSEY LASTING 0F SHOES Application filed tluly 23, 1923, serial No. 653,291. Renewed Ii'ovember 27, 192%.

' of that type where the insole is provided with an upper-attaching lip, and accordingly it is herein illustrated as applied to the manufacture of these two kinds of shoes. In various aspects, however, the invention presents advantages also as applied to the manufacture of other kinds of shoes, for example turn shoes where the upper is fastened to a shoulder on the sole. The term sole is therefore frequently used hereinafter in a generic sense as applicable to the insole of a welt, McKay or other doubled soled shoe, or to an the sole of a single soled shoe such as a turn shoe.

lln lasting the sides of welt "shoes and of McKay shoes of the type above mentioned it is the common practice to fasten the uppers in 253 lasted position by means of temporary fastenings, usually lasting tacks, driven at frequent intervals along the sides of the shoes. It would, however, be a matter of great difficulty, if not practically impossible, to sew welt shoes with these lasting tacks remaining in position, due to the ditficulty of avoiding the tacks and the danger of'breaking the needle, and in McKay shoes the tacks of course must be removed before the outsole is applied. It is accordingly the usual practice to return the shoes to the racks for a number of hours, and it may be for a day or more,

.until the uppers have become substantially set in lasted shape, and then to insert staples through the upper and the lip of the insole to assist in holding the upper for sewing, thereafter removing the lasting tacks.

There are many recognized objections to the practice above outlined, prominent among which are the expense involved in maintaining a large supply of lasts and in providing racks suflicient to hold the shoes while the uppers are becoming set in lasted shape, and the need for floor space sufiicient for such storing of the shoes, as well as the waste of till til

time involved in the manufacture of any par ticular shoes in waiting for the uppers to set.

There is also added expense in the necessity for repeated handling of the shoes. Moreover, where the practice is followed of stapling the upper to the insole to permit the removal of the lasting tacks it is a matter of considerable difiiculty, due in large p art to the presence of the tacks, to insert the staples in the best locations and with such degree of accuracy as to insure that they will hold the upper in the most satisfactory manner for the sewing operation. It is found, therefore, that under the usual factory conditions these staple fastenings vary greatly in their effectiveness, and that the manner in which the upper is thus held not infrequently has an unfavorable eifect upon the character of subsequent operations in the manufacture of the shoe. On the other hand, if the lasting w tacks are removed one by one as the staples are driven, to make way for the staples, as is sometimes the practice, there is danger of displacement of the upper from properly lasted position. In turn work comparatively few lasting tacks are needed along the sides of the shoe, and accordingly it is the usual practive to sew these shoes while the lasting tacks are present, although to a certain extent their presence involves the same diiiiculties as in welt work.

In view of these and other considerations, the present invention, in one of its important aspects, has in view the lasting of shoes, or portions of shoes, without the use of temporary fastenings which must be subsequent- 1y removed, and the invention accordingly provides a novel machine organization designed to work the upper into lasted position and to fasten it to the sole by the use of fastenings, herein shown as staples, that may remain permanently in the shoe, and further provides a novel method for securing improved results by the use of such fastenings. A still further object is to improve in general the character of the lasting, irrespective of the manner in which the upper is fastened in lasted position. For the accomplishment, in general, of the objects in view, the invention, in one of its important aspects, 1 0

provides a novel method of workin the upper into lasted position and a nove organization of means for carrying out the method. In accordance with the practice herein illustrated, the upper is pulled to tension it relatively to the last and the sole, and is then forced over the margin of the sole, and as herein shown inwardly into the angle between the margin or feather and the lip or shoulder of the sole, by engagingit in a location spaced a substantial distance from the edge of the sole and spaced also initially from the plane of the sole with pressure directed inwardly at a substantial inclination to the plane of the sole. Preferably the upper will be held under more or less pulling tension while it is thus forced inwardly into lasted position, and it may be until the upper is fastened in lasted position. In this way the upper is wrapped about the edge of the sole and is bent over its outer face or tucked into the angle between the feather and the lip or 'tive manner, without danger of displacing the marginal edge or feather of the sole in the overlaying operation. An important factor in the tightening effect on the upper in thus laying it over the sole is the application thereto of pressure substantially localized at a distance from the edge of the sole, as above described, since there is thus a minimum amount of friction between the upper and the margin of the sole tending to resist the pull on the upper resulting from the bending action thereon. It is further contemplated that the best results in carrying out these operations on the shoe will be secured by adjusting the force of the pull of the gripper on the upper to the overlaying pressure as the upper is laid inwardly over the margin of the sole, in order to avoid excessive strain on the upper, and in this as well as its many otheraspects the invention presents novelty both in'the method and in the machine organization. Still further to assist in avoiding displacement of the margin of the sole and in stretching the upper tightly over the last, it is preferred that the upper be pulled first in a direction inclined outwardly from the edge of the sole, as herein illustrated.

In one of its important novel aspects the invention has in view the fastening of the upper to the lip or shoulder of the sole by fastenings inserted in directions inclined to the plane of the sole, so that the inner ends of the fastenings will be located, for example,

.1 close to the base of the lip of the sole, or to the base of the channel where the sole is chan ger that the lip may be pulled outwardly by the tension of the upper before the upper has become set in lasted shape. A very effective and simple arrangement of means for laying the upper inwardly into lasted position by pressure applied in a direction inclined to the plane of the sole, as hereinbefore described, and for inserting fastenings in directions inclined to the plane of the sole comprises an arrangement such as herein illustrated, including an overlaying member movable at the required inclination to the plane of the sole and constructed to serve as a guide for fastenings which are driven at substantially the same inclination to the sole to fasten the upper to the lip.

In addition to features which are generally advantageous as applied to the manufac ture of welt, McKay and other kinds of shoes, the invention further provides an organization which has special advantages in operating upon McKay shoes of that type in which the insole is provided with an upper-attaching lip. Such a lip is customarily formed by channeling the insole outwardly toward its edge, so that the lip tends to incline inswardly away from the edge. It is, moreover,

desirable that in the fastening of the upper to the lip the latter be thus inclined more or less inwardly, in order that the upper may not oppose undue resistance to the subsequent return of the lip to a position fiat upon the insole. The machine herein shown, as equipped for operating upon McKay shoe work, is provided with means for thus positioning the lip in inclined relation to the planeof the insole. and the arrangement is also such that the fastenings, driven in directions inclined to the plane of the insole as hereinbefore explained, enter the inclined lip in directions substantially perpendicular to the lip. This affords further insurance that the fastenings will be properly driven through the lip and clinched and that the upper will be fastened tightly to the lip.

It is furthermore within the province of the present invention to subject different portions of the upper, if desired, to different treatment. It is contemplated by the present invention that where conditions render it desirable and feasible to do so, the upper will be brought into lasted position and fastened at comparatively wide intervals, and thereafter the intermediate portions of the upper also will be brought into lasted position and fastened by a different treatment. As herein illustrated, for example, the upper may be subjected at comparatively wide intervals to an updrawing and an overdrawing pull, and thereafter the intermediate portions of the upper may be subjected to an overdrawing pull onl the machine herein shown being provided with means whereby the updrawing pull of the ripper may be conveniently eliminated. Tliis permits the use of a more strongly tensioned updraw spring than heretofore without danger of loosening previously inserted fastenings. It is also contemplated that on a considerable portion of the shoe, for example in the inside shank portion where lid less updraw pull is required and where a hard pull may result in serious distortion of the upper, the updrawing pull may be omitted in operating upon difi'erent successive portions of the upper.

ln lasting the sides of shoes it is particularly dificult to treat in an eflective and satisfactory manner portions of the upper in the locations where the edge of the sole and the sides of the last curve inwardly at the rear of the hall line. ln these locations the upper requires a substantially hard pull to stretch it properly over the instep and to conform it to the inwardly receding curvature of the last and the edge of the sole, and by preliminarily pulling the upper properly and fastening it in these locations in operating on some kinds ofwork the lasting of the remaining portions at the sides of the shoe may be facilitated. lin order that the upper may be pulled in these locations with the required degree of force without danger of distorting it, there are advantages in applying the pull at the opposite sides of the shoe simultaneously ,and a machine by the use of which shoes may be subjected to such treatment and the upper fastened by tacks in the locations mentioned prior to the usual progressive side lasting operation is shown and described in a prior application of Bernhardt Jorgensen, Serial No. 626,083, filed on March 19, 1923.

lt is contemplated that under some conditions it will be advantageous that shoes in which the upper is fastened in the lastingoperation in the manner herein illustrated to the lip or shoulder of the sole be subjected to such preliminary treatment at the points above referred to, in order that the lip of the sole, for example, may not be subjected to an excessive degree of outward pull or that the lasting fastenings may not be loosened through the tension of the upper'after the lasting operation. ln one aspect, therefore,

of the present invention l contemplate pull- 7 ing simultaneously and fastening portions of the up or at'the opposite sides of the shoe in the ocations where the edge of the sole curves inwardly toward the shank, thus taking the stretch out of the upper at these points prior to the side lasting of portions forwardly of the ball line and in the shank, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe progressively by working the upper along the sides inwardly and fastening it to the lip or shoulder of the sole.

lln still another aspect the invention pre sents features of novelty in the general organization and arrangement of the operating instrumentalities whereby ample room is afforded'for the manipulation of the work in the proper manner and for the movements of the difierent instrumentalities to perform their required functions. The machine herein shown has means for forming the upperfastening staples, and it is one advantageous feature that in combination with the uppertensioning means there is provided means whereby the staples are formed in a plane located at a substantial distance from the plane in which they are driven, the machine shown comprising a staple forming member having a movement to transfer the staple to the driving plane.

The above and other features of the inven tion, including various details of construction and combinations of parts, and the method in its various novel aspects, will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation of a porfeatures the invention;

Fig. 1* is a detail view, largely diagramnatic, illustrating the closing of the gripper aws;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the head of the machine looking at the side opposite to that shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a front view of the machine with parts of the gripper mechanism removed to show the fastening forming and inserting mechanism;

Fig. 42 is a view in perspective and partly in section of parts of the fastening forming and inserting mechanism;

Fig. 5 is a detail view of the fastening forming devices with the wire fed in position to be severed to form the fastening;

Fig. 6 shows the same parts as Fig. 5 with the wire about to be cut;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Figs. 5 and 6 in which the outside former has descended to place the formed fastening in front of the driver;

Figs. 8, 9 and 10 are sectional views which illustrate steps in the formation of the staple fastening;

Fig. 11 shows in outside former;

Figs. 12, 18, 14- and 15 show successive steps in the lasting operations on a welt shoe;

Figs. 16, I? and 18 illustrate similar steps in the lasting of a certain type of Motley shoe;

Fig. 19 shows a portion of a lasted welt shoe;

hFig. 20 is a similar view of a lasted McKay s cc;

Fig. 21 illustrates a step in the process of lasting a shoe along the shank portion thereof; and

Fig. 22 shows the bottom of a shoe after the upper has been pulled over and fastened on both sides near the ball line of the sole.

In the machine shown the lasting means perspective one side of the comprises a gripper having a pair of jawsof which the lower one 30 is fixedly secured, as at 32, to the lower end of a bracket member 34 of a sleeve member 36 mounted for vertical sliding movement in a bearing .38 which is mounted to rock about a pivot 37 in the forward end of a horizontally movable slide 40. The other j aw 42 is connected to the lower end of a rod 44, inside of the sleeve 36, by means of a short link 46, the body portion of the jaw 42 being also connected by a pivoted link 48 with the bracket member 34 which carries the jaw 30. It will be understood that reciprocation of the rod44 will cause movement of the jaw 42 in directions toward and from its cooperating aw 30 to seize and release a portion of the upper of a shoe interposed between the serrated ends of the jaws. Both jaws are moved together in an upward direction to effect the u draw movement by which the upper is pulle upwardly to tensionit on the last. To cause the updraw movement just described, the upper end of the sleeve 36 is connected, by a ball and socket joint indicated at 50, to the forward end of a lever 54 pivoted at 56 (Figs. 1 and 2) on the frame or head 58 of the machine. For rocking the lever 54 there is connected to its rear end a slide 62, the slide having a reduced rod part 64 which passes slidably through a block (not shown) pivoted at 60 in the lever 54, said slide carrying at its lower end a pin and roll 66, the roll being mounted in a cam groove 68 in a cam wheel 70 arranged to be clutched, as hereinafter more fully described, to a shaft71, which is the driving shaft adapted to be controlled from connections 73 leading to a treadle (not shown). Upon rotation of the cam wheel 70 the slide 62 and connected rod 64 are reciprocated and during downward movement thereof apply yielding pressure through a spring 72 upon the rear end of the lever 54, thus effecting a yielding, updraw movement of the gripper at the front end of the lever. Extending through the sleeve 36, as before mentioned, is the rod 44, the upper end of which also passes through the ball member of the ball and socket joint so that the upper end of said rod may be engaged to force the rod downwardly, thus closing the gripper. For thus forcing the rod 44 downwardly there is provided a shaft 80 (Figs. 1

' and 2) mounted rotatably in a bearing 82 carried by the forward end of the lever 54 anda second bearing 83 in the end of the rotatable pivot 56 upon which the lever 54 oscillates. Fixed to the rear end of the shaft 80 is an arm 84 carrying at its lower end a roll 86 adapted to contact with the periphery of a cam wheel 88 fixed on the shaft 71, whereby the 'arm'84 and shaft 80 are rocked about the horizontal axis of the shaft. Secured to the other end of the shaft 80 is another arm 90 having a spring-controlled plunger therein provided with a socket 92 (Fig. 2) to receive the upper end of the rod 44. For returning the rod upwardl after a depression thereof there is provi ed a spring 100 surrounding the sleeve 36 and resting at its lower end upon the upper end of the aring 38, its upper end pressing against a washer 102 slidable on the sleeve 36 and connected to transmit upward movement to the rod 44 by a pin 104 fixedly secured to the rod 44 and extending through a slot 106 in the sleeve 36. Clamped to the sleeve 36 is a collar 108 which is adjustable on the sleeve to vary the position of the pin 104 when at its upper position of rest, thus setting a limit to the upward movement of the rod 44 and of the upper gripper jaw 42 relatively to the sleeve 36.

As before stated the sleeve 36 is slidably mounted in the bearing 38 at the forward end of the slide 40. For reciprocating the slide 40 the latter is provided between its ends with a stud carrying a roll 112 (Fig. 2) the said roll being held yieldingly against a face cam 114 on the cam wheel 88 by a spring pressed lever 118 which engages the end of the slide, there being'a washer of hardened fibre 120 between a head "on the end of the slide and a portion of the frame to limit movement of the slide. For tensioning the spring which operates the lever 118 in one direction there is provided a hand lever 122, a pawl 124 and a ratchet wheel 126, all of whichoperate in a common and well known manner. It will be understood that upon rotation of the shaft 71, to which the cam wheel 88 is fastened, the slide 40 will be moved to the right in Fig. 2, at which time the gripper jaws 30, 42 are open in a position to seize the edge of the upper of the shoe, this movement of the slide being caused by the high portion of the cam 114. Continued rotation of the cam brings the roll to the low portion thereof, to cause the slide 40 to be actuated by the spring pressed lever 118, as before described, so that described for causing the closing of the gripper and for effecting the updraw and overdraw movements of. the gripper reference may be had to Patent No. 584,744 granted June 15, 1897 upon application of S. W. Ladd and R. F. McFeely. Means is preferably provided for varying the tension of the spring 72, the said means comprising a sliding wedge 130 (Fig. 2) having a plurality of seats 132 for a pin 134 in a block 136 slidable on the lower end of the rod 64, the arrangement being such that movement of the wedge 130 toward the left in Fig. 2 will raise the block 136 to compress the spring, thereby exerting greater pressure upon the rear end of the updraw lever 54 which will be manifested during the updraw movement of the gripper.

For operating the wedge 130 there is connected thereto a rod 138, the forward end of which carries a handle 140 in a position-accessible to the operator so that the wedge may be adjusted as desired. This adjustment mechanism for varying the force of the pull on the upper is shown in detail in Patent No. 893,331 granted July 14, 1908 on application of S. W. Ladd.

Means is provided for operating the gripper in such a manner as to insure as far as possible that the marginal portion of the upper will be properly seized by the gripper aws in the movement which precedes the updraw and overdraw movements of the gripper. In the present construction novel means is provided whereby the movable jaw is caused to occupy a position widely spaced with respect to the relatively stationary jaw in the first portion of its closing movement. Hence the movable jaw moves into such close juxtaposition with respect to the nose 212 of the fastening inserting means as to insure thatthe margin of the upper will be properly embraced by the jaws. Subsequently the jaws are closed by movement of the movable jaw directly toward the stationary jaw, whereby the upper is securely gripped. Failure to grip the shoe upper is thus practically eliminated except as other factors, such for instance as a scant upper or negligence on the part of the operator, may affect the proper 7 operation of the gripper. Referring to Figs. 1 and 1 of the drawings, it will be seen that the bracket member 34 is provided with a cam member 142 having a cam projectlon 144 which is adapted to engage with an intermediate convex portion of the cam surface 146 on the movable gripper member 42 when the jaws are in starting position. After the gripper jaws 30 and 42 move toward the left in Fig. 1 the jaw 42 is moved downwardly relatively to the jaw 30 tobring a concave cam portion 148 opposite the cam projection 144 so.

that the lower end of the aw 42 moves further to the left when it get below a block 324, hereinafter referred to as indicated in Fig.

1*, thus opening the gripper jaws practically to their extreme extent at the very beginning of the downward movement of the closing rod 44. Near the end of the downward movement of the closing rod the cam projection 149 at the extreme upper end of the movable jaw 42 is engaged with the cam projection 144, whereby the lower end of the jaw 42 is caused to move sharply into gripping relation to the end of the gripper jaw 30. For separating the jaws at the end of their upward movement and for holding them in open position, there is provided a spring pressed plunger 151 (Fig. l) which operates similarly to the disclosure of Patent No. 1,005,234, granted Get. 10, 1911 on-an application of S. W. Ladd and E. A. Stiggins, for improvements in grippers for lasting machines. In the construction herein shown the cam member 142 is concaved to such an extent that the cam projection 149 never contacts with the member 142 until it reaches the projection 144 thereon, although the link 46 and the projection 140 are held over toward the member 142 under the constant pressure of the spring pressed plunger 151. It will be understood that the link 48 assists in the opening and over-reaching movement of the upper jaw just as in the prior construction of the cited Patent No. 1,005,234. Novel features of this gripper are claimed in Letters Patent No. 1,712,611 granted on May 14, 1929 upon an application filed as a division of the present application.

Preferably and as shown, thefastening inserting means is of the type which makes and drives staple fastenings. In order that ample space may be provided for the introduction and manipulation of the work and for the proper operation of the gripper, the fastening forming and inserting mechanism is specially constiucted to form the staple in one plane and subsequently transfer it to the fastening forming and driving devices are,

for the most part, so mounted as to be retractible and projectible with respect to a stationary work rest 150 which is fixedly carried by a bracket 152 on the head or top frame 58 of the machine. 'The said work rest 150 is a curved member, as most clearly shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings, having its end portion provided with an anvil formed with clinching cavities 153 (Fig. 6) designed to turn the ends of the staple legs or prongs directly outwardly with respect to each other. It is considered an important feature that the work rest 150' is a stationary member since it enables the operator to position his work with greater accuracy and rapidity than is possible with a movable work rest. Moreover, the stationary work rest forms a backing against which the gripper is highly effective in its pull to updraw the upper of the shoe and to overdraw the said upper in tensioning it about the last and carrying its marginal portion over the insole which is at the same time held firmly in contact with the last thus securing a snug fit of the upper to the last. Furthermore, the work is accurately positioned and retained against movement during the overlaying operation efl'ec-ted by the forward movement of the overlaying element at the forward end of the fastening inserting means, as will be hereinafter more particularly described.

lln the illustrative fastening forming and inserting means, there is provided an inside former 16 0 (Fig. 4) supported in a stationary bracket 162 fixedly secured to the top frame 58 of the machine, theinside former being carried by a shank part 164 secured for adjustment by a set screw, as indicated at 166. All of the rest of the staple forming and guiding devices (excepting the stationary cutter) are carried at the forward end of a reciprocable slide 170 (Figs. 1 and 2). For reciprocating the slide-170 in an inclined guideway 173 in the frame 58, there is provided a lever 175 having an adjustable fulcrum at 177 on the frame and a roll at its upper end for engagement in the cam groove 179, the lower end of the lever being connected yieldin ly to a link 181 pivoted at 183 to the slide 1 0. It will be understood that the slide is operated in timed relation to the gripper mechanism and to the operations of the fastening forming and driving devices carried by the slide. As shown, the outside former 171 (Fig. 5) comprises two plates 172, 174 secured to a slide bar 176 which is reciprocated to carry the staple from forming position to driving position, as will be hereinafter described, the staple forming movement taking place as the slide 170 moves toward the work rest 150. Also carried by the slide 170 is a cutter 180 adapted to shear the wire at; in cooperation with a fixed cutter 182 carried by the stationary bracket 162. In order that the wire w may be properly guided across the end of the inside former 160 there is provided a pair of slotted 'side guide members 184 which support the wire while the end thereof extends across the space closely adjacent to the end of theinside former, the extreme end of the wire being in contact with an adjustable abutment 186 carried by the fixed bracket 162. -The guide members 184 are carried at the extreme forward end of the staple guiding and driving devices so that upon forward movement of the slide 17 0 they move one along each side of the inside former 160 until just before they pass from thewire the cutters operate to sever it and at the same time the outside former members172, 174 engage the wire as indicated in Fig. 9, to press it against the face of the inside former. By continued movement the outside former forms a Ushaped staple, as

most clearly indicated in Fig. 10 of the drawings. Just at the completion of the forming movement of the outside former, the cross-bar of the staple is engaged by a die member 190 at the lower end of a plate 192 fixed to the forward face of the casing 193 which forms a housing for the bar 176, the die operating in the space between the outside former members 172, 174 to engage the cross-bar of the staple to make a straight cross-bar in cooperation with the face or end of'the inside former 160. This is a relatively important feature of the fastening forming mechanism since in view of the provision of the die 190 it is possible to bend the legs of the staple about the insideformer without exerting such a drawing tension on the legs of the staple as would otherwise be needed to make an approximately straight cross-bar,

Because of the use of the die 190 the outside former does not need to draw tightly on the wire to make the cross-bar, since the die performs this operation in conjunction with the inside former, and hence there is no danger of weakening the staple at the junction of the legs and the cross-bar and a better and stronger staple is provided. If desired the die and operative face of the inside former may be shaped to give a curved contour to the cross-bar of the staple fastening.

At the end of the forward movement of the slide 170 the staple is fully formed, as indicated in Fig. 10. By the time that the staple is full formed the rear edge of a staple control er member 198 (Fig. 7) which moves with the outside former, is in alinement with the operative face of the inside former 160. Hence, as the outside former moves downwardly, to transport the staple to the driving plane, the staple is caused to straddle the controller member 198, the latter thereby maintaining the staple properly within grooves 200 (Fig. 11) in the outside staple forming members 172, 174, the said grooves receivin the staple legs at the time of formation of the staple. In order to insure that the cross-bar of the staple will not catchupon the upper edge of the controller member 198 in passing downwardly from the end of the inside former 160, the upper corner of the controller member is beveled off, as indicated at 202. At the end of the downward movement of the outside former the staple is located below the lower end of the staple controller member 198 and in the path of a staple driver 204 (Fig. 7), the arrangement being such that the lower end of the outside staple former 171 embraces a bed member 206 of the driver guideway. The result of this arrangement is that the staple legs are confined in a space between the bed member 206 below and shoulders 208 (Fig. 11) which define the upper walls of the grooves 200 in the former members 172, 174, in which the staple was originally formed. Furthermore, the driver bar 204 is guided in the same way as the staple itself, that is, between the guide bed 206 and the shoulders 208 on the former members 172, 174 and in the grooves 200. It will be understood that the guideway thus formed is in alinement with the driver guideway 210 in the staple guiding nose 212 from which the staple is driven into the work. As will be hereinafter pointed out the nose 212 also functions as an overlaying member in the lasting operations. Since the outside former members 172, 174must be brought accurately into proper alinement with the wire guides 184 at the upper limit of the movement of the outside former 171 and must also be accurately fitted with relation to the bed 206 so as to bring the staple into the plane of the driver and yet not pinch the staple or the driver against the bed, means is provided for fixing the limits of the up and down movements. of the outside former 171 by set screws 214, .216 adapted to engage a stud 21S projecting from the slide bar 176, the said set screws 214, 216 being adjustably clamped in position so that adjustment may be made in setting up the machineand in i accommodating the parts to any wear that may take place.

For moving the outside former 171 from staple forming to staple delivering position, as above described. there are provided operative connections from a cam wheel 220 (Fig. 1) fixed on the shaft 71, the said connections comprising a lever 222 pivotally mounted on a pivot 224 fixedly secured in the head frame 58 and having a roll 226 to engage with the cam wheel 220. Atits other end the lever 222 is pivotally connected to a link 228 upon which is slidably mounted a sleeve 230, a spring 232 being interposed between the upper end of the sleeve 230 and the end of the lever 222. As shown, the sleeve 230 is screwthreaded cxteriorly, thus providing for adjustment of a. hub 234 which surrounds the sleeve and is adjusted upon turning the sleeve, as will be readily understood from inspection of the drawings, and more particularly of Fig. 1. Connected to the hub 234 is a rod 236, the lower end of which is pivotally connected to a projecting arm 238 (Fig. 4) secured to or integral with the former bar 176. For yieldingly maintaining the roll 226 in contact with the cam wheel 220' there is provided aspring 240 (Figs. 2 and 3) secured on the-fixed pivot 224 of the lever 222, one

, end of the spring being connected to the piv ot 224 and the other end engaging with a pin 242 on the side of the lever 222 so as yieldingly to maintain the lever in contact with its operating cam. From a consideration of the construction just. described, it will be clear that the former bar 176 is yieldingly actuated in both its upward and downward movements so that the set screws 214, 216 are permitted to determine the positions of rest of the outside former 171 in its staple forming and staple delivering positions.

;{.After the staple has been formed and delivered by the outside torn] er 171. it is driven into the work by the. staple driver 204. as above described. 'lihe means for operating the driver bar comprises tn'eterably a spring which is wound up and then tripped at the proper instant to effect a practically inst-ant-aneous staple inserting operation. In the illustrated construction there is pivoted upon an extension from the slide 170 on a pivot bar 248 a driver operating lever 250 having its lower endbifurcated, as at 252 (Fig. 1), to hold adjustably clamped therein a bar 254 having its lower end swiveled in a block 256 slidahly mounted in a driver bar 258 to which is fixedly secured the staple driver 204.

Vound around the pivot 248 is a spring 260 (Fig. 4) having one end 261 caught under a shoulder on the lever 250 and its other end secured to a part of the supporting extension of the slide 170, the said spring being relatively heavy and adapted to operate the lever 250 forcibly to effect the operative stroke of the staple driver. For turning the lever 250 against the tension of the spring 260 there is provided a depressing means for the outer end of the upper arm of the lever 250, which means is adapted to be tripped at the proper time to permit the operation of the spring 260. In the illustrated construction, this depressing means comprises a link 264 (Figs. 1 and 2) pivotally connected at 266 to a slide 268 which is vertically reciprocated by being rigidly connected with a crank operated slide 239 at the front end of the shaft 71. Wound upon the pivot 266 of the link 264 is a spring 2T0 Figs. 2 and 3) adapted to move the link 264 yieldingly toward the front of the machine so that its lower end will be pressed into position to engage a shoulder 27 6 formed on a plate 272 on the link (Fig. 1-) with the upper edge of a similar plate 274 carried by the front end of the lever 250. This engagement of the shoulder 276 on the plate 272 with the upper end of the plate 274 takes place after the upward movement of the link 264, the result being that the lever 250 is turned in a clockwise direction to wind up the spring 260 on downward movement of the link 264, the lower end of the rear arm of the lever 250 moving rearwardly to retract the staple driver 204 from the path of the staple which is brought down by the outside former 171. lihis tensioning of the spring 260 and the retraction of the staple driver 204 take place at or near the end of the forward movement of the slide 170; and after the slide has completed its forward movement and the staple has been transferred, a cam block 280 adjustably fixed to the, front side of the link 264 engages with a cam surface 282 carried by an arm 284 fixed to a stationary part of the head frame 58, the result of the engagementof the parts 280, 282 being to trip the link 264, causing disconnection of the shoulders on the plates 272, 274 so that the driver lever 250 is released with the result that the spring 260 immediately operates to shoot the staple driver forwardly to insert a fastening into the work. Carried by the slide 170 is a projection 290 in which is mounted by screw threads a button 292wl1ich may be adjusted by turning the same with the aid of a screw driver having its end inserted in the slot 294, the rear end of the button 292 preferably carrying a disk of hard fibre 296 which acts as a buffer against which a boss 298 on the lower arm of the driving lever 250 may strike at the termination of the driving movement of the lever.-

The wire from which the fastenings are formed is carried upon a reel 300 (Fig. 3)

from which it is fed through the operation of wire feeding rolls 302, 304, the latter being yi'eldingly pressed against the former by spring means indicated at 305, Fig. 1. For operating the feed rolls there is provided a pawl and ratchet mechanism 306, 308 (Fig. 1) arranged. to receive intermittent driving movement from a rocking arm 310 yieldingly backed by a spring 312 on a shaft 314 which isirocked through the operation of a cam at thelower end of the vertical shaft 316 which is driv n through intermeshing gears 318, 320, th latter being fixedly secured to the shaft 7 The wire feed mechanism is thus briefly described since it forms no part of the .inve ion. Any other well known wire feeding mechanism may be substituted therefor provided it is adjustable and can be made to feed the wire intermittently in definite amounts to the staple forming and driving mechanism. After the wire leaves the feed rolls 302, 304 it passes through a wire guiding tube 322 (Figs. 1 and 4) by which the wire is directed to a guide block 324 fixedly secured to the bracket 162 which is stationary with the head frame of the machine. From the wire guiding block 324 the wire passes cutters 180, 182, as beforedescribed.

Novel features of the staple forming, transferring and driving means are claimed in a divisional application, Serial No. 198,180, filed on June 11, 1927.

When the machine, as thus far described, is thrown into operation by depressing the usual treadle, not shown, the gripper jaws 30, 42 are operated to seize the upper on the last, draw it upwardly by an updraw movement, then inwardly over the edge of the insole on the last in an overdraw movement, and finally to move downwardly to facilitate the overlaying of the upper as the 'nose 212 moves inwardly over the edge of the sole hits overlaying .operation on the upper. Under certaincircumstances' it is desirable, as already stated, that the updraw movement of the gripper should be discontinued while the mechanisms which cause the overdraw and the closing and opening movements of the gripper jaws are continued in action. As stated in the foregoing description the updraw lever 54 for the gripper is operated from a cam wheel 7 0 (Fig. 2) adapted to be clutched to and unclutched from the shaft 71. So long as the cam wheel is clutched to the shaft 71 the updraw lever 54 will be operated and the gripper will, of course, have its regular updraw movement in timed relation to its other movements. When the operator desires to discontinue the updraw movement. he makes use of mechanism provided for the purpose of unclutching the cam wheel 70 fromthe shaft 71. In the illustrative construction, this mechanism comprises a shaft 340 (Fig. 2) mounted in bearings in the head frame 58 and carrying at one end fixedly secured thereto an arm 342 having a cam or wedge portion 344 adapted to engage with a shoulder on a pin 346 to withdraw the latter from a recess 348 in a member 350 fixed on the shaft 71. When this occurs the cam wheel 70 no longer turns with the power shaft and the updraw lever 54 remains stationary. For rocking the shaft 340 to move the wedge or cam 344 into or out of operative position, there is connected to the shaft 340 at its other end an arm 352 (Fig. 3) the outer end of which is perforated to receive a rod 354. Above the perforated end of the arm 352 the rod 354 is surroundedby a spring 356 which extends from the upper surface of the end of the arm 352 to a nut 357 secured to the end of the rod 354. Below the end of the arm 352 there is secured to the rod 354 a collar 358. It will be understood that upward movement of the rod 354 moves the wedge 344 outwardly into inoperative position, whereas downward movement of the rod 354 will cause movement of the wedge 344 into operative position, the pressure being a yielding pressure through the spring 356 so that in case the wedge 344 comes down upon the exposed portion of the pin 346 no damage will be done, the cam wheel 70 and pin 346 continuing to rotate with the part 350 until the extreme edge of the cam or wedge 344 can engage with the shoulder on the pin 346 to retract the pin. In order to move the rod 354 in up and down directions there is provided a collar 360 (Fig. 2) secured to the rod adjacent to its lower end, the said collar carrying a cam projection 362 with which there cooperates an inclined slotted cam member 364at the end of a lever 366 fixed to a pivot pin 368'mounted in bearings 370 extending laterally from the standard 372 of the machine frame, the outer end of the lever 366 carrying a forked member 374 with which the knee of the operator may be engaged to rock the lever 366 and thus through the cooperation of the cam member 364 and the cam projection 362 raise or lower the rod 354. Clamped on the rod 354 is an arm 376 having its other end slidably engaged with the upper end of the pivot pin 368, the purpose of the arm 376 being to prevent rotation of the said rod, thereby holding the cam projection 362 in the slot of the cam member. 364. Conveniently a pin 377 is provided backed by a spring 379 and operative to engage in shallow dea per "aws 3d, d2 the cam lll menace pressions in the lever 366 to retain the lever and hence the wed e 344 in adjusted position.

In the preferref tion shown, the cam 70 is she ed to relax the tension-oi the spring 72, if It be; under tension due to a strong updraw on the upper of the shoe, and then to de ress bodily the gripbein' timed to act in pro etermined relation to t e-movement of the nose 2l2 to overlay the upper on the sole, as indicated in Figs. 13 and 1d, the gripper moving downwardly as the overlaying memher 212 moves to pressthe upper down upon till the sole. Preferably and as shown the last part of the movement of the nose 212 edects a pressing oi the upper into firm contact with the sole and with the upstanding lip or rib 4 I at the angle or junction of the latter with the sole.

in operating with this machine to side-last a welt shoe the gripper jaws 30, 42, after closing on an edge portion of the upper, move upwardly as the sleeve 36 slides through the bearing 38. At this time the work rest 150 is engaged with the surface of the insole,

the end of the work rest being so shaped as to aiford a bachng for the lip or rib of the in sole and to engage snuglyin the angle or channel between the lip or rib and the body or the insole. it is intended that the operator shall hold the shoe at an inclination to the horizontal somewhat less than the inclination of the driver 20d and the member 212 (Fig. 12). Hence, on the updraw movement of the gripper the upper will be tensioned over the last in such a manner as to stand out somewhat trom the last, as indicated in Fig. 12, one purpose being to avoid engagement of the up wardly moving upper with the edge of the insole at this step of the proceedings so as to obviate the possibility out displacing the edge oi the insole or even of turning it over, as might happen it the insole material were relatively thin. in the next step the gripper moves horizontally toward the trout of the machine in what is commonly termed the overdraw movement, this step being illustrated in 13- ot the drawings, it being obvious that the worlr rest 150 prevents not only the upward movement oi the work but also movement away from the fastening inserting means, as represented by the nose portion 212 thereof. it will be clear then that the end of the worh rest at this step is firmly engaged with both the upper face of the insole and the back of the lip or rib. As the gripper moves over the insole in the overdraw movemenhthe inserting mechanism advances and as the'nose portion 212starts its overlaying action on the upper the gripper is moved downwardly toward the insole without releasing the upper, Figs. 13 and 14. illustrating the operation by which the upper is fully laid in over the edge of the insole and into embodiment of the inven-.

the angle between the mar of the insole and the upstanding lip 0r In the machine herein shown, it is only after the fastening has been fully driven and clinched against the end of the work rest, which serves also as an anvil, that the gripper releases the edge of the upper, as shown in F g. 15. It will be evident by reference to Figs. 13 and 14 that the overlaying member 212engages the tensioned margin of the u per in a location between the gripper and t e edge of the insole and spaced a substantial distance from said edge, and that its movement is in a direction inclined to the plane of theiinsole, the construction and arrangement being such that throughout the action of this member on the upper its pressure is substantially localized at a distance from the edge of the insole. The efiect accordin 1y is that the member212 wraps the upper a out the edge,

and with the assistance of the gripperwhich continues to hold the upper under tension but with a pulling force automatically adjusted to the action of the overlaying member so as to avoid excessive strain on the upper. That is to say, the gripper, by its downward movement toward the insole, counteracts to a substantial degree the tendency of the overlaying member to increase the strain or tension on the upper, and thus prevents excessive ten sion while facilitating the laying of the upper into close contact with the insole. It will also be evident that the staples are driven in the same direction as that of the overlaying movement of the member 212, and that they are thus inclined inwardly toward the base of the lip of the insole (FigQ l5) which assists materially in holding the upper tight without too great a strain on the lip.

In operating upon a McKay shoe it is prob erable to substitute for the work rest 150 a work rest 150 (Figs. 16, 17, 18) which difiters the end surface thereof, so that the'i astening.

in the McKay work will be clinched as close down into the groove or channel as it is practicable to get it. This arrangement has the further advantage of facilitating the operation of smoothing down the lip, to which the up per has been fastened, as a preliminary to the application of the outsole. It will be noted that with the lip of the McKay insole inclined as illustrated relatively to the plane of the insole, which is an advantage in that it facilitates the subsequent laying down of the lip, it lies substantially perpendicular to the dillll lid

rec

lar relation to the plane of the insole, with a sulting tendency further to tighten the upper.

Among the decided advantages of the cooperation between the work rest 150, the

. gripper and the member 212 in the lasting operations are those relating to the uniformity of the insertion of the fastenings relatively to the plane of the insole, so that in welt work, for example, they will bear a definite pre determined relation to the inseam sewing and trimming operations, and the very efiective overlaying of the upper by the member 212 in cooperation with the gripper, so that a more than ordinarily good surface is provided u on which to lay the welt, thus making the wor easier for the operator in succeeding operations and resultin in a better shoe.

In the operations oi side-lasting McKay shoes it will be notedthat the gripper should travel a greater distance between the edge of the shoe and the work rest than'in lasting welt shoes since the distance between the u standing lip and the marginal edge of t e insole is greater in McKay shoes than in welt.

shoes, as will be clear from a comparison of Fi 13 and 16. Hence, for operating on .Me ay shoes the cam 114 on the cam wheel 88 may be replaced by a similarly shaped cam which will cause the roll 112 and, therefore,

the slide 40, to move further to the right in Fig. 2, thereby giving a greater movement to the gripper-into position to grip the upper. In lasting the McKay shoe the gripper moves step by step justas in the side lasting oper-' ations on the welt shoe, that is, first the updraw movement, somewhat away from the edge of the insole, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 16, followed by the overdraw movement in which the upper finally reaches the position shown in Fig. 16, just at the time that the nose 212 reaches the upper. Subsequently the gripper is moved downwardly as the member 212 moves inwardly in its operation just as in-the similar movement, illustrated in Fig.

v 14, on the welt shoe. Finally the fastening is inserted and clinched before the gripper lets go, as indicated in Figs. 17 and 18 combine It will be understood that the distance between the end of themember 212 in its retracted position and the end of the work rest is the same for both work rests 150 and If desired difierent portions of the shoe may be 0 erated upon in the following manner; Re erring to Figs. 19 and 20, the first staple will be inserted at a, the second at b, the third at c, that is, spaced .at rather considerable distances with respect to each other. These fastenings at a, b and c are inserted,

using the u draw movement of the gripper, with its ot ier movements, and because the fastenings are s aced so far apart it is possible to utilize the spring at 72 tensioned to the highest point by adjustment of the block 130 on the updraw lever 54, thereby exerting enough tension to make it almost equivalent to a pulling-over operation. It will be understood that if this were attempted with the fastenings placed closely adjacent to each other, one or more of the fastenings mi ht be pulled out by the force of the pull ap lied to the upper. Subsequently the up raw movement of the gri per is discontinued, in the manner already d isclosed, and intermediate fastenings d, e and f inserted using only the overdraw movement of the gripper. Incidentally, Fig. 19 shows the results of side lasting operations on a welt shoe and F i 2O 01: similar lasting operations ,on a Mcay s oe.

. In certain classes of Work, and especially where the upper has not been skimped, it may be desirable to dispense, with the updraw movement of the gripper in side-lasting alon the shank ortion of the shoe as distinguishe from the iorepart and those ortions of the upper just at the rear of the all line of the insole, since it is possible to get the requisite tension on thispart ofthe upper, and particularly on the inside of the shank, by utilizing only the overdraw movement of the gripper and the overlaying action of the nose 212. This will-be made clear from an inspection of Fig. 21 and articularly in comparison of this figure and ig. 12. In lasting along the forepart of the shoe the upper should be carried outwardly in the updraw of the gripper in order to avoid contact with the edge of the insole as will be obvious from an inspection of Figs. 12 and 13,; the overdraw taking place as a subsequent operation. It will be clear, however, from the showing in Fig. 21 that there is no danger of the overdraw movement displacing the edge of the insole at the shank ortion s of the last L since the upper will e lying over at a considerable angle before it contacts with the edge of the insole at this ortion where it is narrow, and hence the up raw of the gripper may be dispensed with and the upper carried in and laid upon the insole by an overdraw movement of the gripper jaws 42, 30, without fore stated, adjacent portions of the upper,

that is, along the forepart of the shoe, are subjected to updraw movements as Well'as overdraw movements of the gripper, and

since the lasting of the forepart will take place before the lasting of the shank portion on the inner side of the shoe, the upper is so Well positioned by these prior lasting operations that no difficulty is experienced in mani ulating the shoe to cause the gripper to seize the upper in the shank portion to overdrawthe same as a'preliminary to the insertion of the fastening.

In the manufacture of some shoes, especially those of a style and size such as to present a pronounced inward curvature at the edge of the last bottom on one or both sides at the rear of the ball line, it may be preferable to pull preliminarily and fasten portions of the-upper in the locations where the edge of the sole curves inwardly toward the shank,

since in these locations the upper may be safely subjected to a hard pull, and such a pull may be required for the best results. In

order to avoid distortion of the upper, and

forbetter uniformity in the results, it is c0ntemplated that under some conditions it will be advantageous that such a pull be applied simultaneously at the opposite sides of the shoe, for example by the use of a machine such as illustrated in the prior application of Bernhardt Jorgensen hereinbefore referred to. A shoe which has been subjected to this treatment is illustrated in Fig. 22. The stretch is thus taken out of the upper in the locations where-the hardest pull is required, and the portions of the upper in the shank also are drawn inwardly to a better position for the operation of the side lasting machine. This manner of treatment will fac1litate the proper insertion of the lasting staples and will insure that the lip of the sole, after the lasting, will not be subjected to an excessive degree of outward pull by the reaction of the upper. in Fig. 22, the side grippers 390 of the Jorgensen machine are shown in dotted herein described.

of the operator, than is the case with machines such as commonly used heretofore for progressively lasting shoes. Since the overlaying member 1s arranged to move in a dimotion inclined to the plane of the sole with a bending and pressing effect on the upper, rather than a wiping effect, it is not necessary that the shoe be held in such an exact angular relation to this member as where a wiper movable in a direction parallel to the plane of the sole is utilized to effect the overaying operation; there being no danger that small variations in the positioning of the shoe relatively to the overlaying member may'result either in dama e to the shoe or in too light pressure to ho d the upper eflectively against loss of tension, such as there is in the use of machines having a wiper operating close to the edge of the sole and against which the shoe should be pressed up firmly by the operator until the upper is fastened. The necessity for pressing the shoe up hard against the overlaying member in the machine herein shown'is further obviated by reason of the fact that the gripper continues its pull on the upper until the overlaying member has arrived at the end of its operative movement; and for this among other reasons also the pro duction of a tightly lasted shoe does not require that the machine be operated with as great updrawing and overdrawing tension as it has been customary to utilize heretofore, so that there is less tendency for the pull of the gripper to displace the shoe in the hands of the operator. Moreover, in operating upon shoes having lipped insoles the channel guide or work rest, by engagement with the lip'of the insole, determines the path of the shoe,

thus making it easy to guide the work, and

also acts as an abutment against the overdraw pull of the gripper, the pressure of the overlaying member and the force of the staple driver, thereby further relieving the operator of the necessity of using a high degree of force in supporting the shoe.

Important novel aspects of the method herein disclosed of making McKay shoes are claimed in a continuing application, Serial -No. 721,007, filed on June 19, 1924.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters'Pa-tent of the United States is 1. In a machine of the character described,

a stationary work rest having an anvil on itsoperative end, means for tensioning the work agamst the resistance of the work rest,

lid

and fastening means arranged relatively to a the work rest to insert fastenings through the work and clinch them against the anvil, said fastening means comprising an inside former located out of the lineof fastening insertion,

an outside former movable to form a fasten-' a combined anvil and work rest, gripper mechanism for tenslomng the work against the resistance of the work rest, and fastening forming and inserting ine'ans comprising a stationary inside former located above the plane of fastening insertion, an outside former movable to form astaple fastening over the inside former and to transport the formed staple to the line of fastening insertion, and a staple driver movable 1nsert fastenings through the work and clinch the sameagainstthe anvil.

3. A lasting machinehavmg a work rest, gripper means for pulling the upper of a I shoe over a last, aninsidd former for a staple fastening located out of the line of fastening insertion, an outside former movable to form the staple over the inside former and to transport the staple to the line of fastenmg insertion, and a driver for driving the staple fastening to secure the upper to the sole after the gripper means has pulled the upper.

4. In a machine of the character described, a work rest, gripper mechanism for pulling the upper of a shoe over a last postloned by the work rest, fastening inserting means for driving fastenings in directions inclined toward the bottom face of the last to secure the upper to the lip or shoulder of a sole on the last, and power means for operating the gripper mechanism and the fastening 1nsertmg means so as to insert each fastening before the. upper is released by the gripper mechanlsm.

5. In a machine of the character described, a work rest, a gripper for seizingthe edge portion of an upper and pulling it over a last positioned by the work rest, fastening lnserting means movable toward the work rest 1n a direction inclined toward the bottom face of the last and having a nose portion oper-' ative to work the upper over a sole on the last, and means for operating the gripper and the fastening inserting means in timed relation so that the upper is worked into final position and the fastening inserted prior to the release of the upper by the gripper.

6. In a machine of the character described, a work rest, a gripper for pulling the upper of a shoe over a last, fastening inserting means for inserting fastenings to secure the upper to a soleon the last, means for imparting to the gripper an updraw movement and then an overdraw movement prior to the insertion of a fastening, and means under the control of the operator for discontinuing the updraw movement of the gripper while maintaining it still effective to overdraw the upper so that fastenings may be inserted at intervals following overdraw movements only of the gripper. i g V 7. In a machine of the character described, a work rest, a gripper for pulling the upper of a shoe over a last positioned by the work rest, fastening inserting means having a nose portion for working the upper into firm con- 8. In a mac ine of the character described,

a work rest, a gripper for pulling the upper of a shoe.over a last, means for. inserting fastenings to secure the upper to a sole on the last, means for operating the gripper to effect an updraw movement thereof and subsequent-1y an overdraw movement prior to the insertion of the fastening, and a knee lever having connections for controlling the gripper operating means to discontinue the up draw movement of the gripper so that the latter may have an overdraw movement only n engagement with the upper prior to the insertion of the fastening.

9. In a machine of the class described, a work rest for positioning a shoe to be lasted, gripper means for seizing successively edge portions of the upper on the last, an overlaying member, and means for moving the v gripper means first upwardly in a direction to tension the upper on the last, then inwardly to carry the upper over the edge of the insole on the last and then downwardly to adjust the force of the pull on the upper to the action of the overlaying member and finally to release the upper after the insertion of a fastening.

10. In a machine of the character described, a combined .work rest and anvil adapted to en age the lip or shoulder of a sole on a last, astening inserting means having a portion adapted to work an upper over the sole and to co-operate with the anvil in inserting a fastening, gripper means for seizing the upper successively at points along its edge portion, and means for operating the gripper means to cause an updraw movement thereof in a direction to draw the upper outwardly away from the edge of the sole on the last and then an overdraw movement to carry the upper over the edge of the sole on the last and to maintain tension on the upper until a fastening has been driven through the upper and'into the lip or shoulder of the sole.

11. In a machine of the character described, a combined work rest and anvil for engagement with the lip or shoulder of a solo on a last, gripper means for seizin the upper sucessively at points along the e ge portion thereof, means for causing the gripper means to tension the upper and to carry it over the edge of the sole, and a fastening inserting means having a nose portion inclined at an angle to the horizontal and arranged to engage the upper while it is held by the gripper means and through movement of the nose portion at an an le to the bottom surface of the sole to wor the upper over the edge and the upper is still held by the gripper of the sole and to clamp an edge portion thereof firmly against the lip or shoulder backed by the work rest and to co-operate in the insertion of a fastening prior to the release of the upper by the gripper means.

12. In a machine of the character described, a combined anvil and work rest for engaging the lip or shoulder of a sole on a last, gripper means for engaging an upper successively at oints along the edge portion thereof, means orcausing the gripper means to tension the upper about the last and to draw it over the edge portion of the sole, and a fastening inserting means comprising a slide movable in a direction inclined toward the bottom face of the last and having a portion adapted to engage the edge portion of the upper while the latter is held by the gripper means to work the upper into the angle at the base of the lip or shoulder on the sole and to clamp the upper against said lip or shoulder while a fastening is being driven means.

13. In a machine of the character described, a combined work rest and anvil for engaging the lip or shoulder of a sole on a last, fastening inserting means having a portion for working an upper over the edge of the sole and for clamping the upper and lip or shoulder in co-operation with the combined work rest and anvil, a gripper normally operative to updraw the upper to tension the same on the last and then to overdraw the edge portion of the upper with respect to the edge portion of the sole and to hold the upper until a fastening has been inserted, and, means under the control of the operator for discontinuing the updraw movement of the gripper while the gripper continues operative to overdraw the upper.

ll. In a machine of the character described, a work rest adapted to engage the lip or shoulder of a sole on a last, fastening inserting means for securing an upper to the lip or shoulder by a row of fastenings, gripper means for seizing the upper successively at points along its edge portion, and means for operating the gripper means to cause an updraw movement thereof in a direction to draw the upper outwardly away from the edge of the sole and then an overdraw movement to carry the upper over the edge of the 'sole and to maintain tension on the upper for securing an upper to the lip or shoulder by a row of fastenings, a gripper normally operative to updraw the upper to tension the same on the last and then to overdraw the edge portion of the upper with respect to the edge portion of the sole and to hold the upper until it has been secured in lasted condition, and means under the control of the operator for discontinuing the updraw move ment of the gripper while continuing its overdraw movement in engagement with the up per to co-operate with the work rest and the fastening inserting means in lasting operations on the shoe at points selected by the operator.

16. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for positionin work, gripper mechanism for seizing a portion of the work to tension the same prior to the insertion of a fastening, and fastening forming and inserting devices comprising a nose portion movable toward the Work rest while the gripper mechanism maintains the tension on the work, said forming devices being operative in a plane above the plane of fastening insertion to form the fastening and then to transfer it to the inserting devices.

17. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for locating a piece of work, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the work, means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper, means for causing an overdraw movement of the gripper, and means for discontinuing the updraw movement of the gripper without affecting its overdrawing action on the work.

18. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for positioning a piece of work, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the Work, means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper, means for causing an overdraw movement of the gripper, a shaft common to both of said means, a cam on the shaft for operating the updraw means, a clutch for connecting the cam to the shaft, and connections under the control of the operator for unclutching the cam so as to discontinue the updraw movement with the gripper in position to efiect overdrawing only of the work.

19. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for pulling an upper over a last and inwardly over the bottom of a sole on the last,

means for laying the marginal portion of the upper over the bottom of the sole, and gripper-controlling mechanism constructed to move the gripper toward the bottom of the sole while holding the upper under tension in the operation of the overlaying means on the upper to prevent an excess of tension on the upper from the action of the overlaying means.

20. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for positioning a piece of work, fastening inserting means, a gripper for tensioning portions of the work prior to insertion of fastenings, means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper followed by an overdraw movement thereof prior to the insertion of each fastening, and means for discontinuing the updraw movement of the 'pper after the insertion of one or more astenings while continuing the overdrawmg action of the gripper preparatory to the insertion of other fastenmgs. 21. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment to position a piece of work, fastening inserting means, a gripper for tensionin 'fportions of the work prior to the insertion of astenings, means for causing updraw and overdraw movements of the gripper to tension portions of the work and to hold them each under tension until a fastening is inserted,and means for discontinuing the updraw movements of the gripper after the insertioniof one or more fastenmgs while maintaining the gripper effective to overdraw the work and to hold it under tension until other'vfastenings are inserted 22. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving. as an abutment for positioning'a piece of work, fastening insertmg means, a. gripper for tensioning a portion of the work prior to insertion of a fastening, and gripper controlling means for causm an updraw movement of the gripper and en sequently as a separate movement an overdraw movement of the gripper constructed to hold the work under tension until the fastening is inserted.

23. In a machine of the character de- I scribed, a work rest serving as an abutment for positioning a piece of work, fastening inserting mechanism, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the work prior to the insertion of a fastening, means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper, and means operating subsequently to the first-mentioned means for causing an overdraw movement of the gripper, the construction and arrangement being such that the gripper maintains the work under tension until the fastening is inserted.

24. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment to position a piece of work, fastening inserting means comprising a fastening guiding nose, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the work, gripper-operating means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper followed by an overdraw movement and then a downward movement without releasing the work, and means for operating the fastening inserting means to project the nose into contact with the work while under tension by the gripper so that the nose and the gripper cooperate in tensioning the work and in maintaining it under tension until a fastening is inserted.

25. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for positioning a piece of work and for clenching a fastening driven into the work,

fastening inserting means, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the work prior to insertion of the fastening, and means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper in a direction inclined outwardly awa from the edge of a piece of work POSltlOIlGd by the abutment and, subsequently as a separate movement, an overdraw movement of the gripper prior to the insertion of a fastening.

26. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for positioning the work, gripper mechanism for seizing a portion of the work to tension the same prior to the insertion of a fastening,

' and fastening forming and inserting devices for inserting a fastening while the gripper mechanism maintains the tension on the work, said forming devices being operative in a plane above the plane of fastening insertion to form the fastening and then to transfer it to the inserting devices.

27. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for ositioning a piece of work and for clenc ing a fastening driven into the work, fastening inserting means, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the work prior to the insertion of a fastening, means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper in a direction inclined outwardly away from the edge of a piece of work positioned by the abutment, and means operating subsequently to the first-named means for causing an over draw movement of the gripper.

28. In a machine of the character described, a work rest serving as an abutment for positioning a piece of work, a gripper for tensioning a portion of the work, operating means for causing an updraw movement of the gripper, means for discontinuing the updraw movement of the gripper arranged to leave the gripper at a predetermined point in its updraw movement, and means for causing an overdraw movement of the gripper in gripping engagement with the upper while it is maintained at the level established by the discontinuing means.

29. In a machine of the character described, a work rest for engagement with the sole of a shoe on a last, a gripper for seizing the upper successively at points along the forepart edge portion thereof to work the forepart portions of the upper over the last and into lasted relation with espect to the sole, means for causing updrawhnovements of the gripper, means under the control of the operator for disconnecting the updraw operating means from its source of power arranged to position the gripper at a predetermined point in its updraw movement, and means for causing an overdraw movement of the gripper to last shank portions of the upper without a prior updraw on these portions of the upper.

30. In a machine of the character demeans -is inoperative, and fastening insert-' ing means for inserting fastenings successively through the upper and through the lip or shoulder of the sole while the gripper maintains the upper under tension at the end of its overdraw movements only.

31. A machine for progressively lasting shoes having, in combination, means for gripping and pulling the upper in different locations successively along the sides of a shoe, means for laying each of the tensione-d portions of the upper over the bottom of the sole by pressure substantially localized throughout the overlaying operation at a distance from the edge of the sole and directed at an angle to the plane of the sole toward its bottom face while the upper is held under tension, and means for fastening the upper in lasted position.

32. A machine for lasting shoes having, in combination, a gripper and means for operating it to pull the upper, an overlaying memher movable in a direction inclined to the the plane of the sole toward its bottom face to lay the upper over the bottom face of the sole without any substantial wiping effect thereon, and means for driving a fastening in a direction inclined to the plane .of the sole to fasten the upper to the sole.

34-. A machine for lasting shoes having, in combination, a gripper and means for operating it to pull the upper, a member movable in a direction inclined to the plane of the sole toward its bottom face to lay the upper over the bottom face of the sole, means for fastening the upper, and means to cause the gripper to retain its hold on the upper until after the fastening is inserted.

35. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises tensioning an upper over the side of a last by a nil in a direction inclined outwardly away om the edge of a sole on the last, then carrying the edge portion of the upper inwardly over the edge portion of the upper inwardly over the edge portion of the sole on the last, Working this edge portion of the upper into contact with the margin of the sole and with an upstanding lip or shoulder of the sole, and inserting a fastening while the upper is still held under tension.

37 That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises tensioning an upper over the side of the last by an updraw movement, then carrying the edge portion of the upper inwardly over the edge portion of a sole on the last while maintaining the tension, while the upper is held in lasted condition inserting a fastening to secure the upper to the sole repeating these operations at spaced intervals along each side of the shoe, and subsequently completing the last ing of the upper in the spaces between the already inserted fasteningsby an overdraw movement unaccompanied by a prior updraw on the upper and followed by the insertion of a fastening in each location to secure the upper in lasted position.

38. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises tensioning an upper over the side of the last by an updraw movement, then while maintaining the upper under tension carrying it inwardly by an overdraw movement into contact with the edgeportion of a sole on the last and working the upper into contact with the sole and with an upstanding li or shoulder thereof, simultaneously with t e termination of the overworking operation inserting a' fastening, repeating these operations at points considerably spaced from each other along each side of the shoe, and completing the side lasting of the shoe by pulling the upper inwardly over the last by an overdraw movement without the preliminary updraw movement before mentioned and working the upper into contact with the sole and inserting a fastening at the termination of each overworking operation to secure the upper to the sole;

39. That improvement in methods of male.

ing shoes which comprises tensioning an upper over the side of a last by an updraw movement, then carrying the edge portion of the upper by an overdraw movement into position over the edge portion of a sole on the last, working the upper into contact with the marginal portion of the sole and forcing it into the angle made by an upstanding lip or shoulder of the sole and the body portion thereof and finally inserting a fastening to secure the upper to the lip or shoulder while 

